Micro Four Thirds camera
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- vaxorcist0
anyone know if the really wide angle lenses on these M43 cameras have more distortion than wide lenses on DSLR's...
i.e. a 20mm lens on FF DSLR isn't too bad if you shoot level..
BUT I experienced using wide lens on APS-C... people in the edges of a picture to look like coneheads
Should I assume the coneheads people in the corners would be worse on a wide lens in M43, or does it depend on the lens more than the format?
- Hombre_Lobo0
ooo im not too sure vaxorcist, i understand this (which i think is relevant) -
when using glass not design for M43 cameras, but design for cameras with a bigger sensor, because of the crop size difference the M43 camera will use the center of the optics more than the outer edge of the optics - which a lot say is more beneficial because your using the best bit.
Which taking that into account if If i had to guess i would say the distortion would be less on M43, but im no experienced photographer.
There is the Panasonic 7-14mm and olympus 8-19mm wide angle lens made for M43, but these are expensive and its a bit silly if you already own a WA / UWA lens.
- Atkinson0
Well for me it's the EP1 or 2, the GF1 lacks a couple of things I want [can't remember what they are though!]. I can get the EP1 with 14-42 + 17 pancake + view finder for £490. Ep2 for the equivalent with the Panasonic 20mm is £1100. I do like the x-pro filter because I don't like playing about post shot. The EVF is great too but I don't think it's worth £600 more.
- sea_sea0
first... hombre_lobo you rawk!
second thanks to a thread much as this one, and much advise from hombre_L i looked into getting myself one, and i did :)
i got the olympus EPL-1, and i'm super happy to report I LOVE IT! the quality is way better than what i used to use, the canon 30d, poor thing, if it wasn't for my fish eye lens it would have already hit ebay.
- Hombre_Lobo0
Haha, you are too kind sea_sea! I also think you should post some of your amazing pics to show him what to expect! :)
@Atkinson
the reason you probably settled on the e-p1/2 was there in built Inge stabalisation. Yeh your right the e-p2 is a lot of money, I wouldn't bother. You shouldreally consider the E-PL1 though because compared to the e-p1 and e-p2it has sharper images
in built IS, which only 1 stop less than the ep1/2 (this difference is almost unnoticable)
it can take an electronic viewfinder unlike the e-p1.
The E-PL1 has better ergonomics.
Better menu system
in built flash with the feature to bounce it off the ceilling indoors.The only real downside is that it is a plastic body and may not
feel as solid as the e-p1/2. However people who own both say they are both great build quality.If you not interested in unbuilt flash, and evf then e-p1 is a beautiful bargain that's for sure.
If you are you could get the E-PL1 14-42 kit and later buy the evf totaling around $680. You should be reminded that the evf of the e-p2 and e-pl1 (they are the same exact evf btw) is incredibly sharp and gets rave reviews.
Hope that helps.
- Hombre_Lobo0
Also if you intend to use old manual focus lenses which is a massive plus about m43. The m43 cameras have manual focus assistance which means that you press a button on the camera and te centre portion is magnified allowing you yo achieve sharper
focus.Now this feature on the e-p1 and e-p2 isn't implemented very well, on the e-pl1 it's much more natural.
- Atkinson0
thanks Hombre_Lobo, I keep making my mind up then re reading this and deciding again on the epl1. I went to the shops today, the EP1 I think feels nicer, like you say though the epl1 is a better camera. Hm..
- Atkinson0
@Hombre_Lobo, just priced things up in the uk it's cheaper to buy the body and lenses separately. The EPL1 + Panansonic 20mm is £530, The GF1 is £599. On that basis and in your opinion, what would you suggest?
Also, what doesn't the GF1 have that the epl1 does have?
And...I do prefer straight shooting if jpegs are decent. Is there that much difference between the GF1 and EPL1?
I'll keep looking, thanks for the advice!
- ********0
Hombre_Lobo
I had both GF1 and X1 at the same time to compare. In a very control setting X1 was better on its sharpness.
On the street, X1 lagged on focusing and display but better over all image quality.
GF1 was at an awkward weight and size. It wasnt small and not light.
X1 was really bad in low light but GF1 was only slightly better.
GF1 had too much useless setting and functions. while X1 was more of a single click walk around camera.
Triple the price, I would still get a X1, just dont use it at night.
- ********0
At the end I just got rid of them both and got a M9.
- again?********
- how's that 180k/year CD gig in Detroit working out eh?!?vaxorcist
- again?
- Atkinson0
epl1 + Panasonic 20mm.
- Hombre_Lobo0
@Atkinson
What the E-PL1 has that the GF1 doesn't have:
In built image stabilization - you can usually get away with 1/8 - 1/10th of a sec with a steady hand.
Better Jpeg output - particularly when shootin landscapes - Panasonic tend to have slightly magenta skies - In Raw the Colour difference is nill.GF1 -
sharper lens (both the 20mm and the pana 14-45)
if you buy the 14-45 GF1 kit, you can shoot stabilized videos - this is also true if you put the pana 14-45 on the Oly cameras.
Much faster focus (however the oly +20mm focuses nearly as fast as the GF1_20mm)
1/4000th s/s (as opposed to 1/2000th)Also when you played with the E-pl1 it may not have had the advanced menu features, so it may have seemed too simple for you. Look on dpreview at the E-pl1 review for more info. The menu system on the PEN series i incredibly customizable.
You can get the The EPL1 + Panansonic 20mm is £530? Thats pretty good, can you tell me where from?
The only major downside to the EPL1 is the slightly slow focus speed. Be sure to try the GF1 and E-PL1 side by side to see the difference.
The other thing with the E-PL1 is the blackout time, but much like the focus speed it may only become a problem when critically putting it next to the GF1, see this video -
http://www.youtube.com/results?s…Side by side its clearly visible, but i dont think it would ever really bother you usually. Also it depends on what you shoot - he also may not be in continuous shooting mode, your best trying ti out yourself.
ALL IN ALL
I would advise getting the Oly E-PL1 14-42, then later purchasing the 20mm and the EVF. The Oly 14-42 is overlooked because of the sharper pana 14-45, but it is still great.
That way you have a nice range, and an additional zoom and macro would make a very versatile set up.
Check this forum for more pics taken with the 14-42 -
http://forums.dpreview.com/forum…
- Hombre_Lobo0
in regards to jpeg colour difference:
People often say the Jpegs are more pleasing out of the Pen series compared to the GF1 (at default color settings), but the GF1 is more true to to life. The Pen series are very punchy.
i like the jpegs out of my GF1, ive actually got a setting on them to make them a little more punchy like the Oly pen jpegs.
Hope that helps
- toe_knee0
I have the LX3. Its great but I'd love a camera with a manual focus ring and a built in optical viewfinder? Is there anything out there like this yet?
- well the GF1/G1 is essentially the LX3 on steroids.Hombre_Lobo
- Tungsten0
Have you experimented with the raw processing from your s90 files to get the most out of them? With some extra work they can come pretty close to a m 4/3rds camera. Might just save you some money depending on what you are expecting from your camera and what your output size is.
- Atkinson0
Hombre_Lobo thanks very much for all that - great help!
Tungsten, yeah, though mot often.
- Hombre_Lobo0
NO PROB DAWG?!?!!
you settled on a selection yet?
- Atkinson0
yeah. Bought separately for a decent price [not much more than an ep2 body, in total]. EPL1 body, Olympus 14-42 and Pany 20mm [looked at the Pany 14-42 but was told by a few people not to bother as it's nothing like the 14-45] . Can't wait!
Almost got the GF1 but a few things swayed me.
- 23kon0
some great reviews in this thread. ive been thinking about a four thirds camera too, to upgrade from my ricoh gx100.
from initial read im thinking about the epl1, 14-42 and the panasonic 20mm as recommended.
whats the model no of the panasonic 20mm?
are the 14 and 20 very wide angled?
is there a fisheye or VERY wide angled lens for fourthird cameras available? (at a decent price)
