Camera advice

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  • 74LEO0

    My Canon A80 first got the pink screen of death and just last week got the infamous E18 error. Great little camera but no longer serviceable and parts aren't worth it. I am looking at this model"PowerShot SX30"http://a.img-dpreview.com/n... to replace it. Anyone got advise on this model or a comparable model in the same price range?

  • Hombre_Lobo0

    The 600D is a solid camera, its a personal favorite of mine.

    The still images are great, the video is excellent and the lens selection + accessories are in abundance. It would be the ideal wallet friendly choice for anyone wanting a 5D mark II as the high iso is very similar (naturally the 5D is better) and the video performance is identical. But don't forget the FOV differences between these two cameras.

    People will say go for nikon for images, go for canon for video. In my experience this is complete crap. people say the d7000 is the high iso king among aps-c size sensors, but again, i think thats crap. All the good sensors are made by sony anyway.

    600D (t3i) @ iso 3200 *LARGE PIC* -
    http://www.imaging-resource.com/…

    D7000 @ iso 3200 *LARGE PIC* -
    http://www.imaging-resource.com/…

    You think the d7000 is miles better? clearly its not.
    (note this comparison does not take in to account shutter speeds)

    The 600d is crazy good value for money. I'm not slating nikon, they're great, but i don't agree with the general consensus of they are better for images.

    Having said all of that, for your purposes it seems like the 600d is overkill. You dont need the video function. you dont need its great high iso. If i were you i would consider either a Canon 500d (t1i) nikon d3100, they are cheaper and excellent value.

    Miguex and others on these boards have a t1i and get excellent pics from them.

    note the 500d isnt quite as good as the 500d for high iso -
    http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/…

    hope that helps!

    • never fails to deliver some sound camera advice!goldieboy
    • good... but I'd not shoot artwork at anything above 200 ISO if I have time to do it right...vaxorcist
    • thanks goldie! :D
      Hombre_Lobo
    • thats my point vax, no need for high iso for static studio work, agreed dude :)Hombre_Lobo
    • true... I have a D7000 for my own ergonomic reasons, the 600D is nicevaxorcist
    • cool vax :) even though video is more important to me, i prefer the ergonomics of the nikons.Hombre_Lobo
  • 74LEO0

    Like the rotating screen like my A80

    • i had several of its precursors. so did dibec. i doubt you'll be dissapointed. just keep ISO low.jaylarson
  • 23kon0

    I THOROUGHLY recommend the Sony Nex 5N

    After researching the market I went for this.
    Believe me, you WONT be dissapointed if you buy this camera.
    I've been shooting for a few weeks and never fail to be amazed at what this camera is capable of and the light situations it can handle beautifully!

    My Dad has a Canon 5D MkII and knows his shit about photography and has been wowed by what i've shown him.
    Next time i'm back at their house i'm going to challenge him to a shooting duel and see what the difference is.

    Lenses are large but they are light! and Sony have announced a map of new lenses for over the coming year.

    • <- this looks nice but top heavy.74LEO
    • wouldnt be a problem if mostly shooting down from tripod like initial brief states23kon
  • Hombre_Lobo0

    ^in addition to the "People will say go for nikon for images, go for canon for video" bit -

    I still think its crap for 99% of users, but it might be true only when spending thousands on a camera. The nikon d3x for example in has one of the best sensors, but it costs about £5000, so its not a useful phrase really.

  • robotron3k0

    my gf has the 5D, it weighs so much she can barely pick it up. I've got the GH2 with the driftwood hack that is incredible. the hack is easy, just copy to the sd card and reboot and its done. now i really can pust my 14mm pancake in low light. here is a video sample of the hack, it's pretty unbelievable.

    • can you zoom in and out while recording video?74LEO
    • what exactly does the hack do?74LEO
    • yes, during recording. also will track auto focus. the hack allows you to control settings for light, speed etcrobotron3k
    • 5D is nice but well out of my price range is it the eos technology that makes it more than the sx30?74LEO
    • there are many varieties of hack, some push to area of red camera, you can also defaut back to org settings.robotron3k
    • great thanks!74LEO
  • ok_not_ok0

    Daddy like!

  • Atkinson0

    Hombre, can you start a QBN camera advice site? Would be ace!

    d0mino, do you need a DSLR just for the proct shots you're talking about. Micro 4/3, or for example the yet unreleased canon s100 might do you.

    • LOL thanks dude! that would be cool. QBN camera hang out!Hombre_Lobo
  • Atkinson0

    Hombre, your knowledge astounds me.

    How many cameras do you own? I don't understand how someone who knows so much about cameras can stick with the one camera [in a good way] - says a LOT for the GF1! I love cameras / process but find myself with a new camera every week, only to return it. Not really sure what I'm looking for but none have been right so far!

  • HAYZ1LLLA0

    Hombre, do you know about video cameras too?
    Which one of these should I get?
    Around £300 ideally.

  • stewart0

    And for your home-studio setup: avoid mixing daylight and lamplight!

  • epigraph0

    When I did this for my portfolio, I got the best results using a scanner. And I hated that because I was a photo buff at the time. I really wanted photos to be the way to go.

  • vaxorcist0

    OK.... for shooting things like flat artwork....

    1. I'd heavily consider a camera with a flip-out viewfinder, like a Nikon D5100 or Canon's similar beast... it makes putting it on a tripod much easier for things like this, less standing on chairs,etc...

    2. if you have a white painted room, you can bounce a flash off a wall or cieling.... or even a big piece of foamcore, this will give you much more even light. I'd get a simple manual flash that has a head that rotates in all directions like this:

    http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Fl…

    Note that a manual flash like this does NOT depend on any camera-brand-specific stuff... I have one of these and it's a good $44 spent.

    3. Lens....while almost any lens is pretty good at F8 or so.... an OLD, 28mm F2.8 Canon may be much sharper than a 18-55 zoom.... and a prime lens is fine on a tripod, unless you have to shoot in a hurry, where a zoom is nice when you have tight deadlines...

    4. Get a tripod that allows you to flip the top tube, so the camera is facing down, rather than at a maddening angle, this will probably quickly become obvious to you when you try it.... an OLD, heavy cheap tripod from craigslist or ebay may be much better than an expensive brand new carbon fibre $$$ from a camera store...

    6. I use a color checker, and take a pic of it every time I change lighting (all flash or all hot-lights, if mixed, use orange gels on flash and/or blue gels on hot lights, avoid daylight from windows if possible).... also I use all manual white balance, and shoot tethered, where the USB wire goes to the laptop, and you see immediately what you're getting.

    7. Sometimes, a cloudy day, outside with a color checker image to test, can give you amazingly nice results for less $$ and hassle, but you have to depend on the weather....

    • with the color card, do you do manual or the fancy version that's configured by software?jaylarson
    • I do all manual, the software uses lightroom and I use captureone pro....vaxorcist
    • awesome advice! i have no idea about studio lighting so thanks dude.Hombre_Lobo
    • use the eyedropper tool, check the greys, check the colors for what RGB values you should get... easy once you get used to it...vaxorcist
  • 9900000

    600D is a great choice. Any of the Canon DSLRs are great, really. My only advice would be to choose the model that best fits your budget, and make sure you have enough set aside for a *good* lens. Does not have to be Canon L series, but don't be cheap. It's a good long term investment -- better than the body which will be outdated in only 2 years.

    I recommend getting either a good zoom that can handle somewhere between 24-100mm+, or start building up a prime lens set (20mm, 50mm, 100mm, etc.). You will need wide angle for bigger setups, but you will also need a long lens greater than 85mm to make sure your product shots are flat and aren't distorted. You can compromise on the DSLR body a little, but make sure you get good lenses. It's the most important part. Cheap lenses that distort and produce too much chromatic aberration will override a high-end body.

    • true.... the lenses, colorchecker, flash and tripod are what last.... a long lens is sometimes great for objectsvaxorcist
  • vaxorcist0

    If you're not using flash or studio strobes, I'd definately get a remote shutter release of some form, so your hand pressing the shutter doesn't cause the camera to vibrate and cause unsharpness.... either that or use the self-timer and mirror lockup, but that can be slow and irritating if you have more than a handful of photos....

    • true that, plus cable releases are like £10, well cheap!Hombre_Lobo
  • vaxorcist0

    If you use a Canon, and you're shooting flat artwork on a tripod, you might consider a lens mounting adapter, so you can use old manual focus prime lenses that can often be had for cheap on ebay.... Tamron and Tokina made some amazingly good 90mm macro lenses that can be had pretty cheap for Nikon Manual Focus, with a $20 adapter they can be made to work on Canon and they're waaay cheaper than a brand new AF lens of similar focal length and quality...

    Some older Pentax manual focus prime lenses are great.... and cheaply can be made to work on a Canon body with an adapter

    lens tests at:
    www.photodo.com
    http://www.photodo.com/browse-le…

    NOTE, that I would use the color card here again, and be careful with color consistency, as old manual focus lenses may have a slightly different color cast, with systematic use of a color card, you can easily batch correct.

  • Hombre_Lobo0

    oh yeh and in response to your lens question.

    The 50mm f1.8 -
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Canon-EF…
    is a decent lens, excellent value, good focal length for studio work. Obviously its good for shallow depth of field stuff, but for studio shots if you stop it down to f5.6 its very sharp.

    http://www.dpreview.com/lensrevi…

    • I just picked this up for my 60D and am in love with it.elahon
  • slappy0

    I would try stretch for a proper 1:1 macro. Something like the canon 60mm f2.8 or nikon eqivalent.

    You want the least amount of barrel distortion and sharpest image possible at close distances.

    I used to use my 70-200 for larger items and 50mm for smaller stuff but recently bought a canon 100mm and its made such a difference.

  • ItTango0

    +10 on the manual flash advice. I have a couple of Vivitars (283/285) that are wildly versatile and cost very little. I use them off camera, mostly, controlling them with a couple of Cowboy wireless triggers. I also have a couple of on flash soft boxes. Really compact and adaptable set up.

    • YES!vaxorcist
    • greetings fellow strobist.... I've got a bunch of triggers and strobes....vaxorcist
    • slim and trim, baby!ItTango
    • yes... lighter than the speeodtron 2401's I still have but rarely use....vaxorcist
  • Hombre_Lobo0

    ^lol, thanks for the kind words!

    I actually only own the GF1, plus the 20mm pancake, and some manual focus 1980's lenses like a canon FD 50mm macro, an Olympus OM 50mm 1.8 and an Olympus OM 135mm 3.5.

    "I don't understand how someone who knows so much about cameras can stick with the one camera"
    lol i see your point. In all honesty i'm kinda waiting for my perfect camera.

    My perfect DSLR -
    APS-C sensor, lightweight, decent manual video.

    The sony SLT a55 was nearly it, but it has this translucent mirror that doesn't move which means it sucks up 30% of the light. without the mirror and manual video, it would be fantastic.

    The 550d and 600d for me weren't it. I find their view finders very small and actually hard to see through. The new electronic viewfinder systems seem much better to me. And in addition it amazes me that with professional equipment you still have to make changes (exposure etc) > take the shot > review > make changes until desired outcome is achieved.

    Electronic view finders show changes on screen, which is surely more practical. I think its the future and the current market seems to be heading that way.

    I still think there is a gap in the market for a lightweight DSLR with a standard mount (canon nikon sony etc), again the sony a55 was nearly it, lightest DSLR i know of. Stupid sony with their crazy see through mirror tech.

    I also think the olympus pen is great, i just wish it had APS-C sensor and good video. because modular systems are the best. Have a small body, add pancakes for compactness, or add big lenses and a view finder for serious shooting.

    My perfect modular system -
    APS-C sensor, lightweight, decent manual video and attachable electronic view finder.

    Which is why im very excited about this -


    Sony nex 5n.
    Sure it looks strange, but its high iso is only a tiny bit worse than a 5d mk II (sounds ridiculous but do some research), its video seems as good as the canon's for video (despite a current teething problem with the audio), attachable view finder.

    Shame the nex lenses are so large. samsung nx range proved you can have an aps-c sensor with small lenses, sony need to learn from them.

    Camera rant over!