Technical Photography question
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- kingjulien
I want to try and simulate the blue tone of this photo for an upcoming shoot:
http://www.axeldupeux.com/page/f…
I realize there are many different ways to achieve this, but what would your strategy be? How would you go about it? Let me mention that I'll be shooting outdoors with no lights, so I only have the camera, the type of film, and the lab in post production to manipulate.
Any suggestions?
Thank you in advance.
- 8eleven0
that girl is fine!
.....
.
Yeah.....
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what were you asking?
- kingjulien0
Chauncey?
- 8eleven0
billups?
- winter0
I think you need to shoot it in RAW format and then import it to PS and mess with the colours. Be sure your camera can file RAW format and you're done.
PS is best in this case because it imports almost every RAW format which is not the same between digital cameras. Nikon D50 or D70s, for example, shoot in a RAW/NEF format that doesn't work in common apps.
- version30
post
- kingjulien0
I wasn't specific enough, but I'm using real film, not a digital camera. Once I get them developed I can scan the images and then manipulate everything in Photoshop but I was wondering if anybody knew any ways to do it before that stage? How does one strip all the colors but blue? Is it just cross-processing a particular kind of slide film?
Thanks winter, version3.
- jonnyquest0
It just looks like chrome(E-6) shot with available light... Fuji Provia 100F tends to be on the cool side especially with cool light and it's a more neutral friendly E-6. Flesh tones tend to be cooler unlike the Kodak line of chromes which always gives me warmer flesh tones.
- Mimio0
They can do that in the lab. Could be a special effects film too, semi-infrared etc.
- kingjulien0
johnnyquest, thank you very much. I've only used Fuji Velvia (50 ASA) for E-6, not the Provia.
So it's then just developed as E-6, or is it processed in C-41 chemicals?
- kingjulien0
Thanks, Mimio.
- jonnyquest0
so to answer your question it doesn't look like there was much post production trickery to that photo it's just a neutral concrete room shot with available light with maybe a little fill card on the subject. some of the other shots in the sequence look like there was some facial retouch and a little post vignetting for visual strength but it just looks like solid in camera work rather than major photoshop trickery.
- winter0
i mentioned RAW format because you can work every colour and it's like taking a new picture. You can't edit a scan without sacrificing some light or tone. I think you need to have a filter on your lenses.
- Mimio0
I could be wrong in this case but I've seen similar results with Kodak EKTACHROME and some lab work.
- jonnyquest0
cross processing your e-6 in c-41 will give you completely different/unpredictable results it will also require a lab that does hand developing as the e-6 will destroy that batch of C-41 chemistry the same can be said for processing c-41 in e-6. anytime you run a different film through different developers that batch of developers is ruined. cross proceesing will give you strange color breaks it's very cool but if you want balanced flesh tones/cross processing is not the route to go you'll get greener/bluer film but fleshtones gou super yello/green
- kingjulien0
You guys are awesome. I really appreciate all of the clarification.
- winter0
find someone who owns a Nikon D50, D70 or D70s and your troubles are done. Shoot and Import to PS. Web or small scale printing.
If it's for an outdoor though, you'll need to scan a blue filtered original.
- monNom0
tungsten film?
filter?
photoshop-ery?
- spiralstarez0
If you are shooting during the day with film, you are at the mercy of the light that day as well. In general, mid daylight tends to be bluer whereas the shoulder times (dusk, dawn) will give you more light from the red side of the spectrum.
If you can shoot it digital raw though, you can change the light temperature simply my sliding the white balance in PS.
- winter0
shoot it at noon.
haha. what a line.
- kbags0
"find someone who owns a Nikon D50, D70 or D70s and your troubles are done. Shoot and Import to PS."
If it's even a remote possibility, then I endorse this move. Seriously, I have tons of respect for film and for those who can navigate it, but that would take about five minutes to do in PS from a nicely composed basic shot.
Good luck, dude!