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Paper by 53 is really nice. I'm not fond of the fact that you have to pay to get some of the additional pens and colors but it's still a really gorgeous app.
I really like the Cosmonaut stylus. I find stylus's are universally clumsy to use, but this one works for me. It's like using a whiteboard marker, and I find I enjoy using it to be as enjoyable as writing on a white board.