Tack Sharp Eyes
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- antagonista0
btw - a number of the images you uploaded were obviously not shot at 1.4.
- vaxorcist0
if at all possible, compose with a carefully chosen focus point DIRECTLY on the inside corner of the eye, then focus on that point and hit the shutter without recomposing at all....
....or recompose just a microscopic amount, but any camera movement can slightly give you that slightly out of focus-ness at say 3 feet at F1.4.....
- this is my method for shooting an 70-200 F2.8 at F2.8 at minimum distances...vaxorcist
- vaxorcist0
note that you can crop later, but fixing focus later can be a mess....
- ok_not_ok0
- LMAO!!!HijoDMaite
- Is her neck broken?qTime
- mmhhhhh...utopian
- what a lie.antagonista
- HijoDMaite0
I'm going to practice some of these last techniques posted on some models this week. I will start with lots of light such as close to a window so I can really get a fast shutter going. My goal will be to recompose the least possible.
I know higher aperture will give me insane good sharpness I am trying to work below 2.8 to get that real dreamy look on the face and hair though. It's got to exist I can't believe all these shots I posted were PP to look like that. Maybe the last one.
They came from 500px (i know they PP the shit out their stuff)
the first shot is at f/1.4 http://500px.com/photo/829624
second is also f/1.4 http://500px.com/photo/5738586
third is f/3.5
and last one is f/1.4 http://500px.com/photo/8713178All according to specs on 500px
- utopian0
- that sure makes it easier i need a model like thisHijoDMaite
- vaxorcist0
background bokeh out of focus-beauty also depends on distance from your subject to the background....
so, you can still shoot F2.8 or F3.5 if your background is very far away and somewhat "busy" and get something sort of like shooting F1.8 with a background closer to the subject... experiment...
- Boompapa0
Tripod, mirror lock-up, timer or remote control for shutter.
- Boompapa0
And practice with zoom lenses (zoomed in) to get that shallow depth-of-field, playing with different apertures. If no zoom lenses, then take your 50 (or whatever) and move it as close to your subject as possible while still being able to focus.
Just do a series of experiments: move the 50mm in close, tack sharp focus, and shoot frames increasing the aperture by one (or half) each time. Then your 85. Then your zoom. Check out your results and see if you're getting there.
And don't forget a tripod, a remote (or timer), and use the mirror lock-up function. And obviously, your subject needs to remain tack still. Those fuckers like to move!
- canuck0
The eyes look fine bro.