What are you reading??
What are you reading??
Out of context: Reply #64
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'Eddie Would Go' by Stuart Holmes
If you like surfing or Hawaii you'll love this!! It is 'The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Riding'. It's a really interesting read! It tells a tale of a remarkable man's life, and the people he grew up around, but it also cleverly ties in the history/birth of surfing in Hawaii, and the rise of big wave riding, with great insight into the many pioneers of big wave riding.