surfers - video
surfers - video
Out of context: Reply #11
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- e-pill0
i used to live in california for about 3 years, i surfed a lot when i was out there. i miss the swells out there the most!!
i remember my first time on a wave and it slipped out from under me and i fell crashing into the water but i was standing so tuff on my board that when i was falling i thought i was going to hit concrete and even though it was water i was prepared to get my face smashed in, and when i realized it was water, the next wave came crashing down on top of me and i smashed into the reef under me!!!
so in the end i did hit rock!!!
i have scars from it!:)