Medium Format
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- allysin0
Thanks Calero. I love your work. Makes me want to do med format (non-pinhole). I do make my cameras. It is nice because you can fool around with pinhole size and focal length. Of course there are calculations for optimal ratios, but when you make them yourself the results are always a little unique. I am still finding my way with it all. I really only picked it up this summer. I also have a Zero Image. The Zero Image is good for traveling because it is sturdy. My cameras are just out of foam core. I did turn one into acrylic thanks to Tap Plastics, but just didn't like the way it felt.
- Calero0
that is awesome... I would love to learn how to do that... where did u learn? i love your photographs and art work as well...
- allysin0
It is actually pretty simple to make a pinhole camera. I can post construction instructions for making a camera similar to mine if you are interested. Essentially, you will be creating a lightproof box that you can put a 4x5 camera back on. It also works with a "fujiroid" instant film back. Let me know if you want me to post more info. You can probably find 35mm instructions online, but I am sort of enamored with the large format right now.
- Calero0
that would be awesome:) I have tons of that fujiroid...:) i think i would prefer to find out how to make a large format one... :)
- allysin0
Ok, Calero, bear with me. This looks long and complicated, but it really isn’t. It is pretty quick to make once you get the hang of it, which allows for lots of iterations and variations. I have tried to make the directions clear, but let me know if anything doesn’t make sense.
You will need:
-4x5 cut film holder (I got mine used for about $8. I think they run about $25 new)
-Black foam core
-Glue (carpenter’s or Tacky)
-X-acto
-Ruler
-Velveteen – from a photo supply shop velvet on one side, plastic on the other.
-Sewing Needle
-Soda can
-Emery boards – you can find this at a grocery store on the aisle where they sell nail care products.
-Gaffer’s tapeCenter of the Camera:
1. You will make four sides of the camera out of a single piece of foam core, this insures the camera is rigid and light tight. This main piece is 4 3/4” wide. The length will vary on the focal length you want. I would suggest a 2” focal length to start. You can later fool around with 1” or 3”, etc. Use the below formula to know where to score and cut your foam core:
Note: You want to score on the dashed lines only (cut about half-way through the foam-core).2. Cut out an addition piece that is 4 3/4” x focal length” (in this case, 2”).
3. Cut the film viewer area out of section A. You want your opening to be 4 3/8” x 5 1/8”. You should place the opening so that you have 1/4” margin around 3 sides of section A.
4. Cut out the opening for your pinhole in section B, after finding the center. It can be anywhere from 1-2”.
5. Glue the additional piece (4 3/4" x 2” piece) onto section C. This will help create some structural support for the camera when you fold it into a box.
6. Fold the camera onto itself and glue into place. I use Tacky Glue, but a basic carpenters glue will work.Top and Bottom of Camera:
1. Cut two pieces of foam core that are 6 3/4” x focal length + 3/4”.
2. Glue these pieces along the top and bottom, making sure the edges along the front of the camera (where the pinhole is) are flush.Velvet Backing:
1. Cut out a strip of velveteen that is 4 3/4” x 6 1/4”.
2. Cut out the film viewer area to match your camera (same as what you did on section A).
3. Glue to camera on section A.Pinhole:
1. Cut out a piece from your aluminum can that is just bigger than the pinhole opening on your camera.
2. Using the roughest emery board first and working down to the smoothest, remove the shiny finish from the aluminum. You don’t have to do the whole square, just the center where you will be making your pinhole.
3. Using your sewing needle, gently make circular motions back and forth to create a small pinhole in the center. You are aiming for a really small hole so don’t rush this part.
4. Use your emery boards again to smooth any burrs from around the hole.At this point you need to take a break from construction and measure your pinhole. If you have a scanner, scan your pinhole at the highest resolution you can. In Photoshop, use the measuring tool to measure the size of the hole. If you don’t have a scanner then just skip this step. This step helps you figure out your f/stop later, but that can be done with trial and error if you don’t have a scanner.
Completing the camera:
1. Tape over the entire back of your piece of aluminum, except for the pinhole (you don’t want anything shiny to reflect light inside the camera).
2. Affix the pinhole to the front of the camera with gaffer’s tape, insuring that you center the pinhole to the camera.You now have a camera!
Next step, calculating f/stop and exposure times. I will post as soon as I get rid of my carpal tunnel.
- allysin0
And because you are a guy and probably have no clue what an emery board is:
I don’t know if this is standard, but I get both the blue and pink ones. I start with the blues and work to the pinks.
- allysin0
To figure out your exposure times:
Take your focal length measurement (ie:2”) and divide it by your pinhole measurement (ie: .008”). This will give you your f/stop (ie: 250). You then go to your list of f/stops and find the one that is closest to your camera. In this case it would be f/240. You can now use a light meter to gage exposure times. If you don’t have a light meter, like myself, use the sunny 16 rule. I don’t want to go on about stuff you probably already know, but let me know if you have any more questions. Also, it is cheapest to shoot on RC paper (I just cut it down) until you get a feel for your camera. It is nice because you can shoot something and then come inside and develop immediately to know if you are hitting the right exposure. The speed of paper is roughly 6 so you just need to take that into account when calculating.Also, there is no viewfinder so to frame your shots you need to look at the angle that is created from the pinhole to where the film is. Does this make sense? I can make a little diagram if needed. Just let me know. Good luck!
- svenreed0
im totally making one when i get home...i used to own a fisheye for my bronica a while back, then switched back to digital and again back to medium format. now its all that i shoot. i just love the feeling of getting a roll of film back from the shop and the extra time i put into each photograph.
here's a shot with the 35mm. i regret selling it.
keep this topic alive!
- Calero0
Allysin... thank you! i am going to try this out... keep posting your work as well:)
- Calero0
great work svenreed:) i love this thread:) allysin you are awesome! I will post more stuff from my mamiya as well!
- allysin0
I hope it works for you. The construction notes were a little trickier to relay in writing than I thought. If we were in the same room I could show you in 5 minutes.
I did just notice one thing that I need to correct. I have made adjustments in my math with each camera and gave you some faulty math.
"3. Cut the film viewer area out of section A. You want your opening to be 4 3/8” x 5 1/8”. You should place the opening so that you have 1/4” margin around 3 sides of section A."
The margin will be a little less than 1/4" around. The more important part is to make the viewer opening 4 3/8" x 5 1/8". I got some shadows on some of my first images because my viewer opening wasn't quite large enough.
Anyway, if you get into it you will probably find tweaks you want to make to future editions.
- allysin0
Went to the beach this weekend... :)
(4x5 pinhole)
- allysin0
another pinhole from the coast this weekend:
- seed0
All I have is a Holga, although I may have to get a higher quality camera soon. This thread has re-inspired me. Here is a small collection of my 35mm shots. I'll re-post when I can add some 120mm.
- Calero0
seed... great work... check on ebay or craigslist for a used one..:)
- allysin0
really nice seed. love Holga.
- Calero0
Anyone else doing medium format?
- digdre0
on what paper you put in the back of your homemade cam
- seed0
How are the Kievs in terms of quality? Thanks, btw.
- allysin0
I use film now, but paper is a lot cheaper when you are figuring out a new camera. I just use Ilford Multigrade RC paper. I get the 8x10 sheets and cut them down into (4) 4x5 sheets. Your image will obviously be negative, so to get the positive you will need to scan them and then invert them in Photoshop. The chemistry for developing is pretty inexpensive too.
- so you don't really need to develop them via a store orso..digdre
- I have a little room in our basement that I turned into a dark room. The whole set up is pretty rough, but it works. So, you don't need to use a shop but you obviously need to develop.allysin
- you don't need to use a shop but you obviously need to develop.allysin
- No idea how.. hahadigdre
- do you have a place where you could set up a make-shift darkroom? I can walk you through it. A closet maybe?allysin
- or, digdre maybe try a 35mm pinhole camera. That film is easier to drop off at the store for dev.allysin