Learning Photography
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- vaxorcist0
Magnum Photographers ... Photojournalism since the 40's
http://www.magnumphotos.com/C.as…...and a few well known 40's to 80's General/Fashion/Art:
Mary Ellen Mark
Irving Penn
Richard Avedon
Diane Arbus
Lee Friedlander
Gary Winogrand
Bruce Davidson
Annie Leibovitz
Tina Modotti
Edward Weston
Henri Carter Bresson
Toni Frissel
Lisette Moddel
Lee Miller
Chris Steele-Perkins
Louise Dahl-Wolfe
Nan Goldin
Jill Greenberg
Lauren GreenfieldLandscape/cityscape:
Bernd and Hilla Becher (and "students of Bernd and Hilla Bechner")
Ansel Adams
Robert Adams
Andreas Gursky
- jaylarson0
Jim Brandenburg
Ansel Adams, maybe you've heard of him?
Franz Lanting
Henri Cartier-bresson
Diane Arbus
Annie LebovitzB&W thread
http://www.qbn.com/topics/681387…coolest photographers thread:
http://www.qbn.com/topics/637874…
- pinkfloyd0
I heard the 80mm 1.2 is ideal for fashion photography. What's the ideal lens for macros of bug heads and close up of flowers? Thanks for the list above!
- 85 1.2 is a tricky weird, mostly used by wedding photographers... very narrow DOF if that's what you want...vaxorcist
- Fashion photographers want clothes in focus, so it's usually NOT narrow DOF except for a Look Book,etc...vaxorcist
- for Macro, bug heads, etc... a 100mm/105mm macro is usually used, or a 180mm,etc...vaxorcist
- mg330
Since a few people have said to make sure to know how to use Lightroom well, I'll throw a tip out there for LR. It was definitely a "why didn't I know of this sooner?" thing.
Make sure to use the lens distortion correction and have your lens profiles saved in LR. You'll feel dumb for not doing it sooner and you'll enjoy seeing some minimal distortion get corrected instantly.
- Lightroom is on sale for $109 at B&H this week, only through tomorrow I think... http://www.bhphotovi…vaxorcist
- vaxorcist0
Lightroom can change your life, much more streamlined than a million of images in photoshop/bridge, and very nice to work with DSLR workflow..... it's obvious how Photoshop was from the 90's in comparison....
Shooting macro things like bugs, on a tripod, tethered to a laptop with a USB cable, laptop running Lightroom can be a great way to learn how to get good macro images quickly....
- vaxorcist0
RE: Fashion and 85mm 1.2.... it's a TRICKY lens, able to easily give you "almost in focus, but not really in focus" images, and it has slow-ish AF....
Among some people, that lens is considered magic, as the F1.2 allows a very nice out of focus background easily in situations like weddings and art portraits,etc...
BUT people think "the magic lens" will make them a great photographer... a guy at a camera store I know calls these people "LBA's" or "Lens Buying Addicts"
On a high end fasion shoot, the lens is not nearly as important as the lights, MUA, model, stylist, art director,etc...
I used to be a digital tech on fashion shoots, and rarely was a lens like an 85mm 1.2 used, as the client generally need to show clothes, accessories, or jewelry that the model was wearing....
i.e. we were not shooting a medium telephoto at F1.2, we were usually shooting a medium or long telephoto at F5.6 or F8, sometimes F11.... and at 100 ISO...
F8 at 100 ISO means you have a lot of profoto or speedotron lighting blasting through softboxes, scrims, reflectors, etc... so it's not just "the lens" that gives a certain look....
One notable exception was shooting a model outside, out of focus trees in the background, we used a Hasselblad HD whatever-it-was with a 150mm F3.5 lens, which, being medium format, is probably the closest in that format to an 85mm 1.2 or 1.4 or 1.8.... and the photographer did this very, very carefully because shooting "wide open aperture" is a recipe for "almost in focus" but not "really in focus" when you're working even with a professional model, as they have to not move, and you have to have perfect focus... he shot more extras of this image than any other... and we lit it not with strobes, but with natural light mixed with old-school film style Fresnel hot lights to give it some depth....
- pinkfloyd0
I downloaded a trial version of Lightroom 5 a few days ago, and the sharpening tool is amazing.
- shoot a ton with whatever you have! go to creativelive.com and watch tutorials when you can! shoot what you learn!vaxorcist
- before you use the sharpening tool you have to use the masking slider. read up on thatHijoDMaite
- pinkfloyd0
I've found some models to do a photoshoot this weekend. I don't have any lighting equipment so I guess i'll go with natural lighting (which I hear is good).
- rylamar0
Thanks for this thread. I've been needing to relearn some of this stuff.
Since I skate I'm really into skate photographers that use alot of B&W film like Fred Mortagne (aka French Fred) and Brian Gaberman.
Of course I also like Avedon and many others listed above.
- vaxorcist0
Buy some foamcore.... and have an assistant/other model hold it like so, if you're in bright sunlight, also maybe use 2 pieces, have model hold another piece like waiter might hold a large dinner plate reflecting upwards, otherwise shoot in the shade if possible, have model turn face back and forth till you see which side has more light, have model aim nose towards light.
- vaxorcist0
- http://www.youtube.c…vaxorcist
- Another good tip is to wear sandals whenever shooting.nb
- "you suck at photoshop" haha
lightroom good though.jaylarson
- pinkfloyd0
I was trying to take some photos today and wanted to blur the people walking by. I set the iso to 100, aperture to 22 and tried different shutter speeds (1 sec, half a sec, 1/4 sec). It created a washed out all white image. Please advise as I couldn't maket he ISO any lower or the aperture any higher. This was outside around 3pm on a sunny day.
- shutter speed too slow. you probably want closer to 1/15 or 1/10. think about the distance a person travels in 1/10 of a second.epic_rim
- 10s<---------------------->1/8000s
much bright<----------->much dim
much slow<------------>much fastpango - no this will not work, the longer the shutter is open the more light will come in and drown the imageHijoDMaite
- making it total white as he mentioned. you need to use a solid ND FillterHijoDMaite
- if you absolutly have to have 100ISO, ƒ22 and 1s. try what Hijodemaite said.pango
- epic_rim0
- learn lightroom
- hang out with other photogs. They'll take you to the places they like to shoot like hidden graffiti spaces and areas they've checked out
- when you're somewhere where everything is really busy (festival, car show, crowds) focus on little details, isolate them
- be really polite to people and talk to them first and then take their picture. I learned this advice from john holmes in relation to porn.
- don't be a dick. that's likely already been decided depending on how you've chosen to live your life
- get comfortable with 1 lens, it'll make getting around easier. preferably 35mm, but that's a personal preference. the 24-70 is called the brick for a reason, it's too fuckin big
- the mechanics will come later, in layers
- HijoDMaite0
pinkfloyd:
if you are trying to capture something similar to the pic below during daylight. you have to use something called Solid Neutral Density Filters or "ND Filters" they come in different stops (strengths) and cost between $100 to $200 each. I would wait to mess with those for a little while until you learn and practice more. I just say this keeping in mind that you want to learn and master the gear you already have and not spend more money. Of course if this is a style you really want to pursue then go for it.
I think JayLarson can speak more on this technique.
- I have a Big Stopper, 10-stop and a 4x4" vari-nd filter. I love long exposure photography!jaylarson
- how much were those?
HijoDMaite
- pango0
By the way. If you image is white but not quite solid white. (you can still see something in it. It means you over exposed it by about 3 ot 4 stop.
You might want to try this.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/pr…
If solid white. then you need a ND (neutral density) Filter that reduces exposure more than 4 spots. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/pr…
- Continuity0
One more tip, besides all the great ones above:
Do not shoot JPEG. Shoot in RAW. This will retain all of the image information for processing in post in ACR or Lightroom. Shooting JPEG straight out of the camera will compress the image, and you lose a tonne of image info, making developing the shot in post a fucking nightmare.
- unless you don't give a fuck. or just taking a snapshot as a note or something.pango
- Well ... true.Continuity
- I can make any JPG
look phenomenal...utopian