Bookcase building

Out of context: Reply #11

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  • blaw0

    That is simplier to a winerack I recently designed:

    You're right when you assume that trying to line up varying-spaced half-lap joints along the full length of a board will be tricking. It's a lot easier to do on paper and remember, 1/16" gap in joint will look big enough to fit your hand through when you're finished.

    You'll notice that mine uses a rectangular carcass with diagonal dividers. This does a few things at once: 1) provides solid, straight-foward joinery; 2) creates a rock-solid case; 3) reduces the length of the dividers to make the half-laps managable; 4) is sized to use the sheet goods in the most economical fashion.

    If sticking with the long, varying-spaced layout is your priority, know that hardware fasteners are nowhere near as strong as we'd like them to be. The shearing forces of the bookcase will likely pull the screws out of your brackets. You'd be better off putting a solid back on the bookcase, which will go a long way towards keeping the structure square.

    You may also want to consider placing the whole piece on a small (2"-3" high) base. A small kickplate can really add visual appeal to a case.

    In case they may be of assistance, you can grab a .PDF of the winerack plans here:
    http://www.brianlaw.org/misc/win…

    Good luck and definitely post photos here.

    • er... *similar.blaw
    • definitely build a jig or template to make sure all of your cuts are the same from board to boardbulletfactory

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