Painting on wood
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- adumbratesly0
Um... you going to prep the wood in anyway? Sanding? Ground application/Gesso?
- emphor0
Lacquer first, perhaps? Might help stop the paint from soaking in.. ?
- e-pill0
you will need to apply a surface coating of some sort, as the paint's pigment and the paint itself, will be absorbed into the wood with-in a few hours.
a good way and easy way, is to cover the entire surface with "Matte Medium" this is apply white/ milky, but dries clear. or you can apply a surface coating of gesso.
oil paint can dry over night when painting on wood, masonite, cork..
acrylic paint not dries ridiculously faster, the pigment itself can be absorbed into the wood and lost forever..also as stated above you will want to sand the face of the wood with a smooth wet dry sand paper.
a nice technique for keeping the look of the 'marbled textures' is to..
1- stain the wood with a turpenoid and oil base of burnt sienna, use 90% turp 10% oil paint, use a large 2" inch brush or larger or even a sponge and cover the entire surface, should be a nice light toned colour. then let dry over night. - if you do not want to use oil, you can do the same effect with acrylics.
2- next day take 1 inch painters tape, and make a frame around the circumference of the face of the wood. what this does, for effect, after you are competed with your final painting, you can then peel off the painter's tape and it should if applied correctly, show that original wood, with stained face, with all the 'Marbling' greatness it was b4 you started.
also you will want to put the tape on first, b4 staining, and b4 coating the surface with either a matte medium or a gesso.
i suggest matte medium because it works as a great covering, and it is clear, it is great to separate acrylics from oil paints as well allowing you to use both mediums. matte medium dries as fast as acrylic does as well.. so be prepared for that.. if painting with either oils or acrylics..
keep your brushes clean.. as acrylic dries very fast, or oils just never get off the brush..
have fun!!
- adumbratesly0
^ nice tips from e-pill - definitely need to prep the surface - one interesting technique I have seen over the last couple of years is to allow the grain/patina of the wood to naturally "leak" through... try this on for size... http://www.audrey-kawasaki.com/
- duhsign0
e-pill what prep would you recommend for an old piece of plywood with crackled paint? I want to paint over it but keep the cool weathered look. I think your right it would soak up acrylics way too much. Matte medium also?
- sand it - get rid of the unnecessary bits, then whatever finish matches your paint choiceadumbratesly
- yes, sand the surface down, you want the wood to get some absorption of the pigments..e-pill
- if you paint on top of paint, it wont have the wood grain in the art as it is covered already.e-pill
- if you want a cracked look, you can add a "crackle medium" to you paint mix to give effect.e-pill
- in terms of the sand paper when you goto the local paint shop, ask them for which one..e-pill
- also if you are painting in oils, use 'Liquin' gel to increase your gloss and extends the paint.e-pill
- its already crackled/aged perfectly. Should I put a matte medium on top to seal before painitng?duhsign
- Pumpkin_baby0
If doing acrylic, I wouldn't prep it at all. You can build up layers of paint, by laying them down, letting dry, sanding, then going back to paint over the new texture.
If you're going oil, you need to size the wood with something like rabbit skin glue or sizing from local craft store, then gesso it, let sit, then paint.
- adumbratesly0
Old art school adage - acrylic if you are in a hurry, oil if you have time to wait - always hated working in oil, but it did have the distinct advantage of being removable (via palette knife scraping) should things go wrong (and they did ...and they will =)
- BonSeff0
i screen printed on a 18x18" square - was pretty fun
- love your work... and your logo; clever stuff =)adumbratesly
- thank you :)BonSeff